Beautiful Sicily

Sicily is simply beautiful!

It was an unique experience to visit the west coast of Sicily with mountains, beaches, small towns with narrow streets, few tourists, reasonable prices and hot summer days - but not too hot.

 Roads and traffic are well for a road trip around the island. Otherwise it is not possible to get around and “under the skin” of Sicily.

Remember the Sicilian way is "slow living" ;o)

I found it difficult to find info about the places around Sicily, and I hope my blog can help others a bit.

My road trip included pit stops in:

Trápani. Erice.

San Vito lo Capo

La riserva Lo Zingaro

Palermo - the capital of the island.

Sciacca

The village of Corleone

1st stop - Trápani:

Note it's pronounced TrÁpani and not TrapÁni ;o)

During flight delay we arrived at Trápani airport after midnight, and at that time there were no buses or car rental offices open, for those who booked a car from the airport... Taxis to Trápani costed around 25 Euros, I was told.

Luckily our hotel manager pick us up in the airport! That's why I will recommend the hotel "Casa Trapanese" right in the middle of old Trápani. Besides our room (apartment) was clean, nice staff, no limited time for the breakfast and reasonable price. Thanks to "Casa Trapanese" for a nice stay!

Narrow streets in old Trápani.

It's said that around 70.000 inhabitants live in the town/city. Though the atmosphere during the day was very calm and relaxed. Around sunset the Italians lived up and and strolled up and down the streets with their families.

The old harbour of Trápani.

Trápani at sunset.

Trápani is situated at the foot of a mountain with a medieval town called Erice. Erice has a beautiful view from the height of the 750 m. It's worth a visit, but touristy though. You can go to Erice by the cable car (Funivia) from Trápani. Driving to Erice is road full a "zig zags".

View from Erice.

ARGENTINA

BUENOS AIRES:

Buenos Aires is a huge but city exciting city. I reminds me of a metropolitan city in southern Europe with it's relaxed and still energetic lifestyle.

Facts of BA:

Inhabitants - around 12 mio. people.

Barrios: 47 neighborhoods.

Area: 200 square kilometers.

Neighborhoods that are often forgotten in the guide books are Belgrano and las Canitas.

Where to stay in BA:

A general tip in Argentina: If you travel in a small group of at least 3 persons, the prices for hostels and a triple room at hotels are the same!!!

Unfortunately we didn't know that, and stayed in sleazy hostels most of our days.

Gran hotel hispano: Is right in the center of BA. Almost next to the well known café Tortoni and international bank of HSBC. Address; Avenida de Mayo 861. www.hhispano.com

Hostels in Ba:

Staying at hostels the chance of interfering with other travelers is more common, and you will be surprised of how many travel on their own.

The quality of the hostels in BA is higher than rest of the country! In the rest of the country we found a lot of sleazy hostels with lack of cleaning, no toilet paper, no soap to wash your hands, poor breakfast etc. In most hostels in BA you can choose rooms for 3 or 4 persons if you travel in a small group. They clean your room, free towels, soap and paper at the bathrooms are never missed.

The oldest neighborhood of BA is San Telmo, which is of walking distance of centro and Plaza de Mayo (casa rosada). Here are plenty of hostels to choose.

- www.ostinatto.com - modern.

- www.ayresportenos.com.ar - cozy theme of the fileteado porteno art.

- www.artfactoryba.com.ar - friendly staff and good price.

- www.hostelcarlosgardel.com.ar - fun theme of old Buenos Aires and Carlos Gardel.

Transportation:

It’s easy to navigate you through BA with the old metro. But at night do your self a favour and catch a cab (remis), besides taxis are very cheap. Buenos Aires is a big city so crime and poverty does exist. As 3 girls we did not feel insecure at any time, but we did read about stories about thefts and attacks, so we did not take any chances.

Metro map of Buenos Aires:

Tourist scams:

La Boca:

I find the history of La Boca very nostalgic and interesting with the immigrants that came to Argentina in their search for fortune and a better life. Unfortunately the little street, Caminito, has ended up as a tourist trap. The cafés and restaurants offer poor service and high prices. Waiters try to drag you in and see a poor gaucho or tango dance. You see no locals there. There are touristy souvenirs everywhere.

But as a visitor of the country you still have to go and see La Boca. Lots of articles warn you not to go away from Caminito because of robberies etc. Please use your common sense everywhere and always!!! We actually found small local joints in the neighborhood just a few hundred meters away from the tourist area.

El Mural at the entrance of la Boca neighbourhood.

San Antonio de Areco:

In Lonely Planet San Antonio de Areco is described as a cozy gaucho (cowboy) town 112 km from BA. It has nothing to do with gaucos. The town is dusty and sleepy and the bus ride is more than 2 hours. If you still must go there, be aware that the gaucho museum is closed on tuesdays. From the tourist info at the park you can rent free bikes. In the middle of the park there is a small lake, an oasis, where you can swim or enjoy refreshments. So bring your swim suit.

Banks:

With your visa card you can ONLY withdraw 600 pesos at a time from the international banks! From the Argentinean banks the amount is only 300 pesos (around 60 €). And the same goes with using mastercard no matter what bank you use.

Busses across the country:

You can go everywhere. Even the suit classes are of good prices. They offer you meals, pillows, blankets and you can turn your seat into a bed. The two companies with most routes, best service and cleanest busses are:

www.andesmar.com.ar - most popular and therefore it can be booked.

www.nuevachevallier.com - same quality and prices but not as overbooked as Andesmar.

The language:

When you visit Argentina and properly any other country in South America, you should do your self a favor and learn the basic phrases in Spanish (castellano the locals say). It saved us. Most people DO NOT speak English! Not even at travel agencies (at least outside BA and Mendoza). Especially the numbers are important to know, when you ride with busses around the country and concerning prices.

Graffiti and street art in BA:

Graffiti in Buenos Aires is astounding. You see it everywhere, from rich to poor neighborhoods, from tourist spots to residential areas. I’ve never seen so much street art. I don’t understand what most of them mean because they’re typically in slang, but the ones I do understand are often political and graphic.

If you want to see a different side of the city, you can go on the graffiti tour, which takes you to the colourful side of Buenos Aires. This art work will surprice you. Graffiti is accepted by the authorities.

http://graffitimundo.com

Fileteado Porteño:

Fileteado porteño is an old classic artform which you can see everywhere in BA. In restaurants, signs, busses, walls, windows etc.

http://todofilete.blogspot.com - About fileteado porteño art. From artists like Gabriel Sanchez and Jorge Molina.

Ellis Island of BA:

The Museo National de Immigracion doesn't seem to be on most people's "must see" list. The rather sparse museum is located in the port area. LikeEllis Island inspiring and emotional. All these people leaving what they knew for a better life. Address: Avenida Antartida Argentina 1355. Retiro.

Coffee:

To enjoy a good cup of coffee can be a challenge. And if you also don’t speak Spanish it can even be a “challenge” to order the right coffee ;o) In Europe we have cappuccino, café latte, nes/instant coffee etc. Below is a small guide to your coffee ordering ;o)

Café con leche = hot instant coffee with milk. c. which is more or less the same in all the countries. There fore I write a small guide.

Café cortado = espresso

Café submarine = coffee with a spoonful of dulce de leche.

Café frio = cold coffee / ice coffee (like freddochino) - is available at some cafés in BA like the Havana cafés (a coffee chain). But not outside BA.

Tango shows:

Tango shows are shows of passion, dance and history. Some shows can be quite expensive though, but you should still do your self a favor and go see one. If you choose dinner included it is of course most expensive.

We saw a show a café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo), which did only cost 70 pesos (January 2009). But for non Spanish speaking tourists it had too much theatrical play in it, and since most of the audience (at Tortoni) were tourists we didn’t understand the story very well. Besides Café Tortoni is mentioned in all the tourist guides as the oldest café in Buenos Aires. To me, it reminded me more of a tourist magnet with no depth.

In Greece I’ve seen a tango show which only contained dance and music, which I found more beautiful and fantastic. I have added a list of tango places. The prices for the shows vary.

http://laventanaweb.com (in San Telmo with nice website).

www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar (in San Telmo).

www.bocatango.com.ar (in la Boca)

www.galatango.com (in San Telmo. Looks more pricy and posh)

www.tangoporteno.com.ar

www.complejotango.com.ar (Centro)

www.viejoalmacen.com (San Telmo)

www.maderotango.com (Puero Madero. New and classy place).

www.la-ventana.com.ar

www.tangopalace.net

www.piazollatango.com

www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

www.operatango.com.ar

www.querandi.com.ar (San Telmo)

www.rojotango.com (with outstanding live band Quinteto Viceversa).

In search of Maradona.

Diego Maradona is a legend and hero in Argentina. To some he is a god ;o) It is not a joke, but Maradonism is a religion and a church in Argentina. They do also have the 10 commands ;o)

Young Diego Maradona when he played for La Boca.

Famous for his goal in the world cup in 1986 - the hand of god - this logo is the symbol of Maradonism.

Maradona grew up in a poor neighbourhood Villa Fiorito, which is not so far from la Boca. The old house of his parents is supposed to be at the corner between calle Azamor and calle Mario Bravo. (Unfortunately I didn't go there myself, but I found out about this information after I left). If anyone goes, please let me know :o)

If you want to know more about Maradona's life and football in Argentina I recommend:

www.maradona-lefilm.com - The movie "Maradona by Kusturica". Both a movie and a doc about Maradona

http://footballisgod.dk - a documentary about the passion of Boca Juniors.

Eating in Buenos Aires.

The national dish is the steak - and big ones. But being in Argentina for a month, I started to get fed up with big steaks, french fries, hamburgers and pizzas with fat double cheese, which seem as the most common dishes at most restaurants. That’s why I have listed up some restaurants that offer something different.

www.puravidabuenosaires.com: 
Cheap and healthy snack such as smoothies, exotic salads, New York bagels etc. You can find Pura Vida in barrio Recoleta and micro centro.

http://www.mingaparrilla.com.ar/index_eng.htm
:Best Cesar’s salad ever. I know it sounds crazy to go across the Atlantic for a salad. But it’s worth a try ;o) Besides the decor of the restaurant is cool - both modern minimalistic combined with old photos of gauchos. Neighborhood: Palermo, Calle Costa Rica 4528.

www.barlaperla.com
Old café from late 1800. But very touristy though right at the corner of calle Caminito. The décor inside is very cozy with the walls covered with old photos of famous Argentineans and paintings, which makes the place worth a visit. The food is common Argentine with sandwiches with lomo etc. There is a free tango show in the weekends. Be aware it's touristy. Address: corner of Caminito street in La Boca.

Cantina el Obrero :
Caffarena 64, La Boca. A typical cozy and neighborhood trattoria. Walls are covered with pictures of football players and tango characters. Friendly prices.

El obrero

El Banderín : 
living history since 1929. This small restaurant is an example of how much Argentineans love football. Banderín means flag, and about 400 of them from around the world decorate this place. Prices are inexpensive. El Bandarín is Located on the corner of Guardia Vieja 3601 , barrio Abasto. www.elbanderin.com.ar

MENDOZA CITY:

The reasons for going to Mendoza are to

- visit a wine yard and try wine tasting,

- adventure sports such as rafting, trekking, mountain biking, paragliding etc. at the Andes mountains,

- visiting Chile.

Mendoza does not offer the same high cultural life, shopping possibilities, same standard of modern restaurants or night life as BA. But the nature outside the city and the mountains are indeed beautiful.

DO NOT STAY at the hostel called "adventure park hostel" in the mainstreet Sarmiento (no. 681). Here we had the worst hostel experience in Argentina. They charged us 50 pesos pr. person (Jan 2009). The rooms were small and bad. They don't even have places to hang your things or put your bag. Besides the bathrooms never had toilet paper or soap to wash your hands. Of course you had to bring your own towel. It was not very clean and very noisy. We only stayed 1 night!

Hotel Casino: By accident we found the nicest hotel and friendliest staff at the family Hotel Casino! At Plaza Chile square. For a triple room we payed only 130 pesos pr. night! The room was clean, own bathroom, towels, TV, nice breakfast, best and friendliest service!

www.nuevohotelcasino.com.ar

Adventure tours in Mendoza:

The surrounding mountains of Mendoza are a mecca for tours of rafting, trekking, mountain biking, horse riding, kayaking etc. And I could go on. You can book your tour at the different agencies that are in the center. Most offices are concentrated around the pedestrian street.

Be aware from the “bike & wine tour”. I will not recommend it. It sure does sound romantic and tempting to go to the wine yards by bike enjoying the beautiful landscape. But the trip is a LOT longer than they say! Besides the traffic on your way out of the city is NOT bike friendly. They told us it would take 1 hour to get to the first wine yard. In stead it took us 2 hours, and we asked for directions more of times because we thought we were lost. And here the locals do NOT speak English.

Rafting:

For rafting I recommend the company www.serooutdoors.com. The guides are friendly, crazy ;o) and very good at English. You can either go for a one day tour or stay at their base camp which we did. In that way we also met a lot of locals camping for the weekend.

Electro tango:

The well known bands of this new genre are Gotan Project and Bajofondo tango club. But these two bands are also worth listening to. CD’s are cheap to buy in Buenos Aires. Below I have listed other links for electro tango bands.

www.myspace.com/otrosaires

www.myspace.com/tanghetto

www.gotanproject.com

www.myspace.com/gotanproject

www.myspace.com/tangofusionclub

www.myspace.com/bajofondomardulce

www.myspace.com/bajofondoremixed

Going to Uruguay:

From BA it is easy to go to Uruguay by the highspeed boats "Buquebus" right next to harbour of Puerto Madero. You can go either to the old town Colonia og Montevideo. The beaches are much nicer in Uruguay. Punta del este is where wealthy argentinias go.

I've heard this beach area should be nice: www.portaldeldiablo.com.uy

Other useful links:

http://goalzz.com/main.aspx?c=4249 : (Plan for soccer mathces)

http://revista054.blogspot.com : (free magazine about BA)

www.virtualtourist.com : (a travel forum for the whole world)

www.notesfrombuenosaires.com : (volunteering)

http://www.thedisappearedmovie.com : (documetary of the dark history of Argentina).

www.isabelallende.com : Isabel Allende is my favourite writer. I have liked ALL her books I have read, and many are based on stories about South America, which gave me a good knownlegde before my travel.

http://ctrost.blogspot.com/2009/01/chris-trosts-2009-chile-argentina.html : A very detailed travel blog I found by accident.